Pickett Fire raises questions of smoke taint
In a case of déjà vu, winegrape growers once again have to contend with losses from a major wildfire incident. As of Wednesday, the Pickett Fire, which broke on Aug. 21, has burned more than 6,800 acres in the hills east of Calistoga.
Napa County has declared a state of emergency as part of an effort to gain access to state and federal funds. A local health emergency has also been declared in part to warn the public about potential hazards in the environment.
Officials this week have been assessing the losses to bolster the state of emergency declaration. The Napa County Agricultural Commissioner’s Office has been surveying grape growers for potential damage or losses due to the fire.
One issue is exposure to wildfire grapes leading to potential smoke taint, which can give wines an ashy, smoky or other unwanted flavors. Wineries are known to reject fruit exposed to wildfire smoke.
Scientists continue to research smoke exposure and smoke taint. Not all fruit exposed to smoke necessarily develops smoke taint, scientists have repeatedly stressed.
Don and Julie Nord own Nord Vineyard Management, which leases Jonquil Vineyard in Pope Valley. The Nords lost their crop in 2020 and a part of their fruit in 2017. They may lose much of the 2025 crop again this year.
The 90-acre vineyard is about 3 miles from the Pickett Fire, which started in the 2300 block of Pickett Road, prompting concerned calls from the Nords’ client wineries.
The clients, whom the company requires to carry crop insurance, have sent fruit for testing for smoke damage, Don Nord said Wednesday. One winery is performing a micro-fermentation.
No results have arrived yet, but Don Nord anticipated wildfire smoke damage to the red fruit, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Merlot. Most of the Sauvignon Blanc was recently harvested.
The wineries’ crop insurance should cover most of the damage, Nord said. In turn, they can pay the Nords. “So, we’ll be okay,” he said.
Still, Nord did not hide his disappointment.
“We’re not here farming for insurance,” Nord said. “We want to produce top quality fruit and not depend on an insurance claim. But it’s not going to be devastating to the company because of the presence of crop insurance.”
Like others, Don Nord praised Cal Fire. “They’re doing all they can in pretty rough terrain,” he said.
Heibel Ranch Vineyards on Aetna Springs Road has lost its entire crop, according to the company. Trent Ghiringhelli, who helps manage his family’s 2-acre vineyard on the 185-acre ranch, estimated the fire has burned 90 percent of the property. Two water tanks have been lost, along with PVC irrigation pipes.
“It’s crazy,” said Ghiringhelli.
Heibel Ranch, which produces 200 to 300 cases a year, does not have crop insurance. Yet he remained committed. “I’m not ready to give up yet,” he said. Ghiringhelli estimated the losses at “north of $50,000.”
He praised Cal Fire’s efforts and the community response, including the customers who have been purchasing their wine. Cal Fire’s firefighting response has been “reassuring,” Ghiringhelli said.
Neighbors and others, including his son, have been helping Cal Fire any way they can to put out the fire. He and others have guided the responders on various properties.
Other growers, including Robert Foley, who owns Robert Foley Vineyards on Howell Mountain, noted much of the smoke has headed toward Lake County. Still, Foley planned to test fruit exposed to smoke.
Pope Valley Winery has been among the wineries under evacuation orders. Pope Valley Winery owner Diana Eakle Hawkins said she was confident her family’s vineyards have sustained minimal to no damage. “We are back for essential production and agriculture duties,” she said on Tuesday.
Napa Valley Grapegrowers on Wednesday reported scientists from UC Davis, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s agricultural research service or USDA-ARS, as well as Cornell and Oregon State University are collaborating on a research project to better understand the dynamics of the Pickett Fire using remote smoke sensing tools.
Napa Valley Grapegrowers said it will plan to reach out to growers interested in participating in the research project.
The wine industry has expressed support for Cal Fire, Napa County Fire and others.
At the Napa County board of supervisors meeting on Tuesday, Michelle Novi, counsel and senior director of industry relations at Napa Valley Vintners, thanked Cal Fire and Napa County officials, including the supervisors, for their leadership shown during the Pickett Fire.
